When you first step off the bullet train and exit the modern glass monolith of Kyoto station, it’s hard to believe the city is home to more than 2,000 religious monuments and no fewer than seven UNESCO world heritage sites. The first view which greets visitors is a sea of concrete office blocks, but venture for half a mile and you soon find yourself stepping into a maze of cobbled streets, where the suited and booted mingle with women sporting kimono and wooden geta sandals.
I’d been told that it’s easy to get ‘temple fatigue’ in Kyoto; that within a couple of days I’d get tired of tramping from shrine to shrine in a bid to see as many ancient monuments as possible. Heeding this advice, I was keen to experience all aspects of the city – both past and present.
Just as spectacular is Kinkaku-Ji, a glittering pavilion clad in gold leaf which forms the centrepiece of the Rokuon-Ji temple complex. Even the hoards of tourists posing for photos – and in our case torrential rain – fail to diminish the beauty of the structure and its dazzling reflection in the motionless water of the adjacent mirror pond.
The zen temple of Kennin-Ji in the geisha district of Gion (more to follow on that in a future post) is much more understated but, in my view, more deserving of a visit than the massive temples which lie nearby due to its simple yet striking beauty. We visited at dusk and spent an hour wandering happily among the moss and raked pebbles of its dry garden before marvelling at the temple’s hidden secret – a huge silver and black dragon mural which adorns the ceiling inside.
For a taste of the city’s imperial past we headed to Nijo Castle, the former Kyoto stronghold of Japan’s shogun. With two moats, meandering gardens and squeaking ‘nightingale’ floorboards – designed to alert inhabitants to unwanted intruders – it provides a fascinating insight into the courtly intrigues which used to play out within its walls.
Old and new Kyoto comes together at Nishijin Textile Centre, which celebrates the city’s textile heritage. As well as weaving demonstrations and displays of historic kimonos, the centre hosts daily fashion shows featuring modern takes on Japan’s traditional costume. Leave your expectations at the door, as the show we witnessed included a space-age kimono complete with rocket-shaped hair pins and a hologram-covered obi belt
The same is true of the Nishiki-Koji market, a dark, narrow and bustling walkway where stalls of fresh fish, vegetables, sweets and chestnuts stand next to small shops selling hand-painted fans, chopsticks, jewellery and 21st century kitchen gadgets.
More shopping opportunities abound in the district of Higashiyama, which is perched on a hillside to the east of the city centre. We were lucky enough to visit during March, when its steep alleys are lined with glowing paper lanterns and the many craft stalls stay open until late.
For a bang up-to-date retail experience, we spent an hour exploring the Bic Camera mega store, which houses seven floors of gadgets, from gumball machines to games. It’s often chosen as a testing ground for Japan’s new inventions before they go on the wider market, so you may get the chance to try a new phone or console months before anyone else.
Another aspect of modern Japanese culture can be found at the International Manga Museum, where trendy teenagers lounge between displays exploring the surprisingly rich heritage of the genre.
In short, Kyoto is much more than a collection of ancient landmarks and its bubbling – if not immediately obvious – cultural scene deserves to be explored. Spend all your time temple-hopping if you dare.
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- Fushimi Inari
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- Kennin-Ji’s dry garden
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- The ceiling at Kennin-Ji
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- The golden pavillion at Kinkaku-Ji
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- Lanterns in Higashiyama
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- Fans on display at Nishiki-Koji market
